A History of 5000 Years: Izmir

In addition to being a busy tourist center, Izmir is a strategic site for all kinds of cultural activities with its universities, museums, concert halls, cultural and art associations. As such, it is home to many national and international festivals.

As described by Victor Hugo: “Izmir… a princess with a beautiful necklace on her neck”, along the waterfront, tourists and locals alike enjoy the gentle touch of Aegean breezes while watching thousands of colors blend together as the sun sets over Izmir’s bay.

Izmir is a five thousand year old city, situated on the west of Anatolia peninsula, surrounded by the Aegean Sea and the cities of Balikesir, Manisa and Aydin. Its approximate land area is 11.973 square kilometers.

Today, İzmir is Turkey's third largest city and is nicknamed "Occidental İzmir" or "The pearl of the Aegean". It is widely regarded as one of the most liberal Turkish cities in terms of values, ideology, lifestyle, dynamism and gender roles.

İzmir is also home-town of some famous singers like Sezen Aksu.

The city hosts an international arts festival during June/July, and an international fair during August/September every year.

Modern İzmir also incorporates world-famous ancient cities like Ephesus, Pergamon, and Sardis.

The province of Izmir include 28 towns and 629 villages. The following towns are in the Izmir province: Aliaga, Balcova, Bayindir, Bergama, Beydag, Bornova, Buca, Cesme, Cigli, Dikili, Foca, Gaziemir, Guzelbahce, Karaburun, Karsiyaka, Kemalpasa, Kinik, Kiraz, Konak, Menderes, Menemen, Narlidere, Odemis, Seferihisar, Selcuk, Tire, Torbali and Urla.

Population

After Istanbul and Ankara, Izmir is the third most populous city in Turkey. According to the census conducted in 2000, its population is 3,387,908.

Cuisine

Izmir’s cuisine offers a rich variety of food due to the vegetation grown in the region and its multicultural history. Some of the common dishes enjoyed in the city are tarhana soup (made from dried yogurt and tomatoes), Izmir meatballs, stuffed artichokes, mucver (squash fritters), cipura, lokma and wild herbs.

Cipura
Cipura, the perch-like sea bream, is the best-known fish of Izmir. Found widely in both the Mediterranean and Aegean seas, this delicious fish with a dark blue back and silvery scales is also produced on many fish farms throughout the country.

Lokma
Lokma is Izmir's celebrated sweet. Tiny balls of yeast dough are fried in hot oil and soaked in syrup to sweeten.

Wild Herbs
Dishes made with fresh herbs have a special place in Aegean cuisine. Markets are full of wild and cultivated greens such as purslane, wild radish, wild mustard, and cauliflower leaves, and many more. Many dishes are prepared by washing and blanching the leaves, then serving with a simple dressing of lemon juice and olive oil.

Historical Sites throughout Izmir’s many neighborhoods

Ancient Smyrna (in Bayrakli)

Izmir’s first settlement, dating back to the third millennium B.C., is located at the end of the bay, and is known as the ‘Tepekule Tumulus’. The tomb of Tantalus has been found along with other relics, indicating that it was inhabited long before Smyrna was established.

Kadifekale (on Mt. Pagos)

Kadifekale (or ‘Velvet Castle’) was supposedly built after Alexander the Great received a vision in the 4th century BC. Many antiquities belonging to the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman times found here can be seen in the Izmir Archeology Museum. Few remains of the stadium are on the hillside.

Kiziilcullu Aqueducts

The aqueducts, located in Sirinyer, were built across the Meles Stream in Roman times to carry water to the city, built at that time on the slopes of Mount Pagos (in the Kadifekale area).

Agora (in Namazgah)

The Roman marketplace, with its basilica, courthouse and underground galleries, also had a vault bearing the bust of Faustina. Engravings of Poseidon, Demeter and Artemis are on exhibition in the Izmir Archeology Museum.

Baths of Diana

Baths of Diana, one of the most significant remains of the old city of Izmir, were established by a natural spring and named after the goddess Artemis, representing the purity of the water. Few remains are left of the original baths, where nymphs were said to bathe in its marble aqueducts.

Kemeralti, Izmir’s Old Bazaar

Kemeralti is the crowded trade area where Ottoman-style buildings abound. This area has a rich cultural heritage thanks to its old streets, squares, historical and religious buildings. Spice, candy, and textile shops which have been passed from generation to generation are still satisfying customers from all over the world.

Alsancak

Alsancak is the trading and entertainment center of the city where numerous Levantine and Greek buildings and relics are prominent. Many churches and Izmir’s modern port facilities are in this section of the city.

Historical Buildings

Hisar Mosque (1592), St. Polycarp Church (1625), Hatuniye Mosque (early 1600’s), Sadirvan Mosque (1636), Basdurak Mosque (1652), Kestane Bazaar Mosque (1663), Kemeralti Mosque (1671), Kizlaragasi İnn (1741), Konak Yali Mosque (1754), Bikur Holim Synagogue (1800), Cakaloglu İnn (1805), Donertas Fountain (1814), Ethnography Museum (1831), Alsancak Train Station (1858), Pasaport Pier (1876), Mithatpasa Art İnstitute (1881), Ataturk High School (1888), Izmir Trade Stock Exchange (1891, now housing the Provincial Directorate of Tourism), The Clock Tower (the symbol of the city for over one hundred years), Beth İsrael Synagogue (1905), Salepcioglu Mosque (1906), the Asansor (historic elevator in the Karatas neighborhood, 1907), Ataturk Statue (1933), other inns, antique markets, Turkish baths, fountains, and bazaars are among the multicultural elements that have decorated the city for hundreds of years.

Museums

In the city of Izmir: the Archeological Museum, Ethnography Museum, Ataturk Museum, Art and History Museum, Ahmet Piristina City Archives Museum, Fine Arts Museum, Natural History Museum, and Ege University Botanical Garden. In other districts throughout the province: the Ephesus Museum, Cesme Museum, Bergama Museum, Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Odemis Museum, Tire Museum and Camlik Train Museum.

Baths

Luks Bath (Kadi Hamami): In Kemeralti, this is one of the earliest (16th century) Ottoman buildings in Izmir. The facility contains separate warm and hot baths. İt continues to be used today.

Basmane Bath: This was built in typical octagonal style in the 17th century Ottoman era, and is still utilized for daily use.

Izmir Bird Paradise...

The most important bird sanctuary in Turkey, which is home to 250 species of birds, 17 species of reptiles and 308 species of plants…

http://www.spacecampturkey.com/eng/index.php

Culture Park, with its palm-tree-lined paths...

Culture Park, a ‘green space’ of over 40 hectares in the heart of Izmir, is an important recreational area. It boasts a parachute tower, zoo, concert halls, Museum of Art and History, open-air theatre and a lively amusement park. Izmir International Fair hosts thousands of visitors every summer, and is but one of the many exhibitions and trade fairs held here every year. The Izmir International Fair (IIF), the only member of the Union of International Fairs in Turkey, was held on an area of 421.000m2. In accordance with the rapid and dramatic developments in Turkish economy, IFF has been organizing various national and international specialized fairs for years. IIF also made great contributions to Izmir’s social and cultural life with its fair ground, open-air theatre, Painting and Sculpture Museum, art centers, amusement park, zoo and parachute tower.

Along the waterfront downtown, there is the ‘Kordon’. As described by Victor Hugo: “Izmir… a princess with a beautiful necklace on her neck”… Along the waterfront, tourists and locals alike enjoy the gentle touch of the Aegean breezes while watching thousands of colors blending together as the sun sets over the Izmir Bay.

Hot Springs of Agamemnon (in Balcova)...

Named during the reign of Agamemnon, the king of Mycenae, the thermal waters still flow to provide a source of healing and comfort to patients from all around the world in the physical therapy and rehabilitation centers in modern facilities housing therapeutic mud baths and hot springs of thermal water.

A bird’s eye view of Izmir from the Teleferik Cable Cars…

After a short cable car ride to the pine forest, you reach a point where all of Izmir unfolds before your eyes. Here you can relax, have a barbeque picnic; enjoy the cool fresh air, and the spectacular view of the city, the Hot Springs of Agamemnon and the Aegean Sea.

Karsiyaka

Karsiyaka, a suburb of Izmir, in Izmir province, situated north of the Gulf of Izmir, an inlet of the Aegean Sea, Karsiyaka borders an industrial zone and a shipping yard to the east and a large forested area to the north. The city is an important business and commercial center. It is connected to downtown Izmir by rail, highway, and commuter ferry, and to Çanakkale in northwestern Turkey by highway. Originally a remote suburb of Izmir, Karşıyaka became larger and more important in the 1960s when its waterfront was developed as a prosperous residential neighborhood. Population was 424,357 in 1990 and 438,764 in 2000. Karsiyaka SK, the sports club of Karsiyaka, (also known as KSK) has one of the biggest supporter population in Turkey.

Pinarbasi

Pinarbasi is one of the favorite picnic and leisure sites for locals and tourists. Its quince and pomegranate orchards, gardens, springs, and fresh air make it a wonderful haven for all its visitors.

Kimiz Farm (in Kemalpasa)

The Alas Kimiz Farm is located 29 km east of Izmir, in the foothills near Kemalpasa. In this beautiful setting one can sip ‘kimiz’ (a traditional drink from Central Asia) and enjoy horse-riding, dining on traditional Turkish food, and simply relaxing in the beautiful surroundings.

Windsurfing in Alacati…

Izmir’s Alacati Bay ranks among one of the three finest windsurfing locations in the world. Its shallow waters and continuous wind provide an ideal venue for the international windsurfing championship organized in Alacati every year.

http://www.alacati.com

Ilica and Sifne Thermal Springs

Eighty kilometers east of Izmir lies the wonderful white sands of the Ilica beach, and a few kms to the east, the thermal springs of Sifne. The warm water (42°C) can also be felt as one relaxes in the small pools near the breakwater of the Ilica harbor. Both Ilica and Sifne have treatment centers utilizing the hot mineral waters to treat a variety of ailments.

Phocaea Islands and the Siren Rocks

The islands nearby the ancient city of Phocaea (modern day Foca), attract tourists from all over the world to watch its marvelous sunsets over the Siren Rocks against the backdrop of the beautiful Aegean Sea. Playing on the rocks are the Mediterranean monk seals (Monachus monachus), whose population in the world has decreased to 400. Conservation efforts to preserve and enhance the population of this threatened species are ongoing.

Tire Bazaar

Famous for its many traditional Anatolian handicrafts and fresh vegetables, this open-air market (held on Tuesdays, and sometimes on Fridays) is the largest in Turkey. The open-air market and many historic buildings make Tire a popular spot for local and foreign tourists with a relaxing day-trip from Selcuk or Izmir.

The Environs of Izmir

Selcuk-Ephesus

74 km south of Izmir lies the ancient city of Ephesus, the most extensively uncovered and restored city of the twelve ancient cities in the Ionian League. Earthquakes and silting up of the harbor forced the population to move 2 kms east to the present town of Selcuk. Here one finds the ruins (only a single column) of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the biggest and the most magnificent marble building of its era. St. Jean Church, a holy location for Christianity, is also in Ephesus. The nearby Tomb of the Seven Sleepers bears an interesting tale of seven Christian young men who fell asleep until the resurrection. in Ephesus, one can see the Fountain of Trajan, Hadrian’s Temple, the restored Library of Celsius, the magnificent ancient amphitheater which can seat 24,000 spectators, the Double Churches (the first church dedicated to Mary and site of the church hosted the council meeting in 431 AD), and the terrace houses lying at the foot of the Bulbul Mountain. For tourists especially interested in religious sites, the Basilica of Saint John (4th century AD) and Isabey Mosque (1375 AD) in Selcuk, and the House of Virgin Mary on Mt. Bulbul are worth visiting. The House of Virgin Mary welcomes everyone where it is located above and behind Ephesus, on Bulbul Mountain.

Sirince Village (Kirkince)

Located a few kilometers from Selcuk, the village of Sirince still bears its authentic face. The distinctive Greek architecture is obvious as one wanders through the narrow streets to shop for crafts, and taste the homemade wine served by the local cafés, making Sirince a very popular tourist attraction.

Pergamon (modern day Bergama)

The people of ancient Pergamon invented a leather-paper product made from sheep or goat hide when papyrus imports were suddenly cut off. It was named ‘pergamina’ (hence ‘parchment’) and was one reason Pergamon had the second largest library in the ancient world. Its gorgeous amphitheater, the charming Sanctuary of Athena, and the Temples of Trajan and Dionysos are definitely worth visiting. The most beautiful edifice of the world at one time, Pergamon’ s Altar of Zeus, is currently on exhibition in Berlin Museum.

http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/izmir

Aesklepion

Below the acropolis, upon which Pergamon perches, are the well-preserved ruins of one of the oldest hospitals in history. The healing center was devoted to the god of health, Aesklepios. In addition to treating one’s physical ailments, special attention was paid to one’s psychological health, which made Aesklepion famous as ‘the cradle of psychotherapy’.

Erythrai (İldiri)

Another one of the 12 Ionian cities in the Aegean region is the ancient city of Erythrai, 15 km east of Cesme. İts name, meaning “red” in ancient Greek, is derived from the deep red color of the soil found in the area. Some remains from Hellenistic and Roman times can still be seen within the remains of its 4 km-long walls.

Clazomenae (Urla)

Located 38 km west of Izmir is ancient Clazomenae, which dates back to 4000 BC. As early as 2000 BC, it had established itself as an important ceramic center. Excavations in the area have uncovered unique painted terracotta sarcophagi, and in the bay, remains of an ancient causeway (under the modern one) leading to the small island which lies off-shore.

Panaztepe

Near Maltepe west of Menemen, remnants from as early as 2000 BC have been found along with Tholos-style tombs and an extensive ancient cemetery. Roman ruins and tombs from the Ottoman era can also be found in this Aeolian city.

Pitane (Candarli)

On a small peninsula south of Dikili lies Pitane, a member of the ancient Aeolian League. Burial urns from a recently discovered necropolis are on display in museums in Bergama and Istanbul. The castle built by the Venetians in the 13th century is still in good condition.

Cyme (Nemrut)

The largest Aeolian city was Cyme, located on the coast NW of modern-day Menemen. Although very little few ruins are visible (a small piece of wall, building, and temple to Isis), harbor works can be seen underwater while snorkeling.

Phocaea (Foca)

Phocaea was a port city located at 70 km northeast of Izmir, which used to be one of the 12 Ionian cities. The outer castle, Genoese fortress (late 13th century), and Ottoman boathouse (known as “Beskapilar”) still keep on saluting the Aegean Sea from the Foca headland. The Ottoman graveyard, with its more than 200 gravestones, and the impressive Tas Kule (Stone Tower) built by ancient Persians are some of the sites of attraction.

Teos (Sigacik)

Near Seferihisar, Teos was one of the wealthiest cities in the Ionian League. Having two harbors, the city held a significant position in sea trade. The largest Temple of Dionysos was located here. Teos was also home to the ‘Artists of Dionysos’, a guild of artists and musicians who performed at festivals all over the ancient Greek world.

Lebedos

Lying on a small peninsula between Seferihisar and Gumuldur, Lebedos was one of the 12 Ionian cities. The wall around the peninsula can be seen together with a foundation for a basilica inside the east corner of the city wall. Located about four kilometers from Lebedos is another site of attraction, the Karakose ruins, which include a temple and bath.

Colophon (Degirmendere)

One of the most powerful Ionian cities, it was a rich agricultural town about 15 km north of Claros and Notium. The scant remains of the ancient city are scattered across the lower slopes o