İzmir

A History of 5000 Years: Izmir

 

In addition to being a busy tourist center, Izmir is a strategic site for all kinds of cultural activities with its universities, museums, concert halls, cultural and art associations. As such, it is home to many national and international festivals.

As described by Victor Hugo: “Izmir… a princess with a beautiful necklace on her neck”, along the waterfront, tourists and locals alike enjoy the gentle touch of Aegean breezes while watching thousands of colors blend together as the sun sets over Izmir’s bay.

Izmir is a five thousand year old city, situated on the west of Anatolia peninsula, surrounded by the Aegean Sea and the cities of Balikesir, Manisa and Aydin. Its approximate land area is 11.973 square kilometers.

Today, İzmir is Turkey's third largest city and is nicknamed "Occidental İzmir" or "The pearl of the Aegean". It is widely regarded as one of the most liberal Turkish cities in terms of values, ideology, lifestyle, dynamism and gender roles.

İzmir is also home-town of some famous singers like Sezen Aksu.

The city hosts an international arts festival during June/July, and an international fair during August/September every year.

Modern İzmir also incorporates world-famous ancient cities like Ephesus, Pergamon, and Sardis.

The province of Izmir include 28 towns and 629 villages. The following towns are in the Izmir province: Aliaga, Balcova, Bayindir, Bergama, Beydag, Bornova, Buca, Cesme, Cigli, Dikili, Foca, Gaziemir, Guzelbahce, Karaburun, Karsiyaka, Kemalpasa, Kinik, Kiraz, Konak, Menderes, Menemen, Narlidere, Odemis, Seferihisar, Selcuk, Tire, Torbali and Urla.

 

 

 

Population

 

After Istanbul and Ankara, Izmir is the third most populous city in Turkey. According to the census conducted in 2000, its population is 3,387,908.

Cuisine

 

Izmir’s cuisine offers a rich variety of food due to the vegetation grown in the region and its multicultural history. Some of the common dishes enjoyed in the city are tarhana soup (made from dried yogurt and tomatoes), Izmir meatballs, stuffed artichokes, mucver (squash fritters), cipura, lokma and wild herbs.

 

Cipura
Cipura, the perch-like sea bream, is the best-known fish of Izmir. Found widely in both the Mediterranean and Aegean seas, this delicious fish with a dark blue back and silvery scales is also produced on many fish farms throughout the country.

 

Lokma
Lokma is Izmir's celebrated sweet. Tiny balls of yeast dough are fried in hot oil and soaked in syrup to sweeten.

 

Wild Herbs
Dishes made with fresh herbs have a special place in Aegean cuisine. Markets are full of wild and cultivated greens such as purslane, wild radish, wild mustard, and cauliflower leaves, and many more. Many dishes are prepared by washing and blanching the leaves, then serving with a simple dressing of lemon juice and olive oil.

 

 


Historical Sites throughout Izmir’s many neighborhoods

 

Ancient Smyrna (in Bayrakli)


Izmir’s first settlement, dating back to the third millennium B.C., is located at the end of the bay, and is known as the ‘Tepekule Tumulus’. The tomb of Tantalus has been found along with other relics, indicating that it was inhabited long before Smyrna was established.

 

Kadifekale (on Mt. Pagos)


Kadifekale (or ‘Velvet Castle’) was supposedly built after Alexander the Great received a vision in the 4th century BC. Many antiquities belonging to the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman times found here can be seen in the Izmir Archeology Museum. Few remains of the stadium are on the hillside.

 

Kiziilcullu Aqueducts


The aqueducts, located in Sirinyer, were built across the Meles Stream in Roman times to carry water to the city, built at that time on the slopes of Mount Pagos (in the Kadifekale area).

 

Agora (in Namazgah)


The Roman marketplace, with its basilica, courthouse and underground galleries, also had a vault bearing the bust of Faustina. Engravings of Poseidon, Demeter and Artemis are on exhibition in the Izmir Archeology Museum.

 

Baths of Diana


Baths of Diana, one of the most significant remains of the old city of Izmir, were established by a natural spring and named after the goddess Artemis, representing the purity of the water. Few remains are left of the original baths, where nymphs were said to bathe in its marble aqueducts.

 

 

Kemeralti, Izmir’s Old Bazaar


Kemeralti is the crowded trade area where Ottoman-style buildings abound. This area has a rich cultural heritage thanks to its old streets, squares, historical and religious buildings. Spice, candy, and textile shops which have been passed from generation to generation are still satisfying customers from all over the world.

 

 

Alsancak


Alsancak is the trading and entertainment center of the city where numerous Levantine and Greek buildings and relics are prominent. Many churches and Izmir’s modern port facilities are in this section of the city.

    

 

Historical Buildings

Hisar Mosque (1592), St. Polycarp Church (1625), Hatuniye Mosque (early 1600’s), Sadirvan Mosque (1636), Basdurak Mosque (1652), Kestane Bazaar Mosque (1663), Kemeralti Mosque (1671), Kizlaragasi İnn (1741), Konak Yali Mosque (1754), Bikur Holim Synagogue (1800), Cakaloglu İnn (1805), Donertas Fountain (1814), Ethnography Museum (1831), Alsancak Train Station (1858), Pasaport Pier (1876), Mithatpasa Art İnstitute (1881), Ataturk High School (1888), Izmir Trade Stock Exchange (1891, now housing the Provincial Directorate of Tourism), The Clock Tower (the symbol of the city for over one hundred years), Beth İsrael Synagogue (1905), Salepcioglu Mosque (1906), the Asansor (historic elevator in the Karatas neighborhood, 1907), Ataturk Statue (1933), other inns, antique markets, Turkish baths, fountains, and bazaars are among the multicultural elements that have decorated the city for hundreds of years.

 

Museums

In the city of Izmir: the Archeological Museum, Ethnography Museum, Ataturk Museum, Art and History Museum, Ahmet Piristina City Archives Museum, Fine Arts Museum, Natural History Museum, and Ege University Botanical Garden. In other districts throughout the province: the Ephesus Museum, Cesme Museum, Bergama Museum, Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Odemis Museum, Tire Museum and Camlik Train Museum.

 

Baths

Luks Bath (Kadi Hamami): In Kemeralti, this is one of the earliest (16th century) Ottoman buildings in Izmir. The facility contains separate warm and hot baths. İt continues to be used today.

Basmane Bath: This was built in typical octagonal style in the 17th century Ottoman era, and is still utilized for daily use.

 

Izmir Bird Paradise...

The most important bird sanctuary in Turkey, which is home to 250 species of birds, 17 species of reptiles and 308 species of plants…

http://www.spacecampturkey.com/eng/index.php

 

 

Culture Park, with its palm-tree-lined paths...

Culture Park, a ‘green space’ of over 40 hectares in the heart of Izmir, is an important recreational area. It boasts a parachute tower, zoo, concert halls, Museum of Art and History, open-air theatre and a lively amusement park. Izmir International Fair hosts thousands of visitors every summer, and is but one of the many exhibitions and trade fairs held here every year. The Izmir International Fair (IIF), the only member of the Union of International Fairs in Turkey, was held on an area of 421.000m2. In accordance with the rapid and dramatic developments in Turkish economy, IFF has been organizing various national and international specialized fairs for years. IIF also made great contributions to Izmir’s social and cultural life with its fair ground, open-air theatre, Painting and Sculpture Museum, art centers, amusement park, zoo and parachute tower.

Along the waterfront downtown, there is the ‘Kordon’. As described by Victor Hugo: “Izmir… a princess with a beautiful necklace on her neck”… Along the waterfront, tourists and locals alike enjoy the gentle touch of the Aegean breezes while watching thousands of colors blending together as the sun sets over the Izmir Bay.

 

Hot Springs of Agamemnon (in Balcova)...

Named during the reign of Agamemnon, the king of Mycenae, the thermal waters still flow to provide a source of healing and comfort to patients from all around the world in the physical therapy and rehabilitation centers in modern facilities housing therapeutic mud baths and hot springs of thermal water.

 

A bird’s eye view of Izmir from the Teleferik Cable Cars…

After a short cable car ride to the pine forest, you reach a point where all of Izmir unfolds before your eyes. Here you can relax, have a barbeque picnic; enjoy the cool fresh air, and the spectacular view of the city, the Hot Springs of Agamemnon and the Aegean Sea.

Karsiyaka

Karsiyaka, a suburb of Izmir, in Izmir province, situated north of the Gulf of Izmir, an inlet of the Aegean Sea, Karsiyaka borders an industrial zone and a shipping yard to the east and a large forested area to the north. The city is an important business and commercial center. It is connected to downtown Izmir by rail, highway, and commuter ferry, and to Çanakkale in northwestern Turkey by highway. Originally a remote suburb of Izmir, Karşıyaka became larger and more important in the 1960s when its waterfront was developed as a prosperous residential neighborhood. Population was 424,357 in 1990 and 438,764 in 2000. Karsiyaka SK, the sports club of Karsiyaka, (also known as KSK) has one of the biggest supporter population in Turkey.

 

Pinarbasi

Pinarbasi is one of the favorite picnic and leisure sites for locals and tourists. Its quince and pomegranate orchards, gardens, springs, and fresh air make it a wonderful haven for all its visitors.

 

Kimiz Farm (in Kemalpasa)

The Alas Kimiz Farm is located 29 km east of Izmir, in the foothills near Kemalpasa. In this beautiful setting one can sip ‘kimiz’ (a traditional drink from Central Asia) and enjoy horse-riding, dining on traditional Turkish food, and simply relaxing in the beautiful surroundings.

 

Windsurfing in Alacati…

Izmir’s Alacati Bay ranks among one of the three finest windsurfing locations in the world. Its shallow waters and continuous wind provide an ideal venue for the international windsurfing championship organized in Alacati every year.

 

http://www.alacati.com

 

Ilica and Sifne Thermal Springs

Eighty kilometers east of Izmir lies the wonderful white sands of the Ilica beach, and a few kms to the east, the thermal springs of Sifne. The warm water (42°C) can also be felt as one relaxes in the small pools near the breakwater of the Ilica harbor. Both Ilica and Sifne have treatment centers utilizing the hot mineral waters to treat a variety of ailments.

 

Phocaea Islands and the Siren Rocks

The islands nearby the ancient city of Phocaea (modern day Foca), attract tourists from all over the world to watch its marvelous sunsets over the Siren Rocks against the backdrop of the beautiful Aegean Sea. Playing on the rocks are the Mediterranean monk seals (Monachus monachus), whose population in the world has decreased to 400. Conservation efforts to preserve and enhance the population of this threatened species are ongoing.

 

Tire Bazaar

Famous for its many traditional Anatolian handicrafts and fresh vegetables, this open-air market (held on Tuesdays, and sometimes on Fridays) is the largest in Turkey. The open-air market and many historic buildings make Tire a popular spot for local and foreign tourists with a relaxing day-trip from Selcuk or Izmir.

 

The Environs of Izmir

 

Selcuk-Ephesus

74 km south of Izmir lies the ancient city of Ephesus, the most extensively uncovered and restored city of the twelve ancient cities in the Ionian League. Earthquakes and silting up of the harbor forced the population to move 2 kms east to the present town of Selcuk. Here one finds the ruins (only a single column) of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the biggest and the most magnificent marble building of its era. St. Jean Church, a holy location for Christianity, is also in Ephesus. The nearby Tomb of the Seven Sleepers bears an interesting tale of seven Christian young men who fell asleep until the resurrection. in Ephesus, one can see the Fountain of Trajan, Hadrian’s Temple, the restored Library of Celsius, the magnificent ancient amphitheater which can seat 24,000 spectators, the Double Churches (the first church dedicated to Mary and site of the church hosted the council meeting in 431 AD), and the terrace houses lying at the foot of the Bulbul Mountain. For tourists especially interested in religious sites, the Basilica of Saint John (4th century AD) and Isabey Mosque (1375 AD) in Selcuk, and the House of Virgin Mary on Mt. Bulbul are worth visiting. The House of Virgin Mary welcomes everyone where it is located above and behind Ephesus, on Bulbul Mountain.

 

 

Sirince Village (Kirkince)

Located a few kilometers from Selcuk, the village of Sirince still bears its authentic face. The distinctive Greek architecture is obvious as one wanders through the narrow streets to shop for crafts, and taste the homemade wine served by the local cafés, making Sirince a very popular tourist attraction.

 

Pergamon (modern day Bergama)

The people of ancient Pergamon invented a leather-paper product made from sheep or goat hide when papyrus imports were suddenly cut off. It was named ‘pergamina’ (hence ‘parchment’) and was one reason Pergamon had the second largest library in the ancient world. Its gorgeous amphitheater, the charming Sanctuary of Athena, and the Temples of Trajan and Dionysos are definitely worth visiting. The most beautiful edifice of the world at one time, Pergamon’ s Altar of Zeus, is currently on exhibition in Berlin Museum.

 

http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/izmir

 

Aesklepion

Below the acropolis, upon which Pergamon perches, are the well-preserved ruins of one of the oldest hospitals in history. The healing center was devoted to the god of health, Aesklepios. In addition to treating one’s physical ailments, special attention was paid to one’s psychological health, which made Aesklepion famous as ‘the cradle of psychotherapy’.

 

Erythrai (İldiri)

Another one of the 12 Ionian cities in the Aegean region is the ancient city of Erythrai, 15 km east of Cesme. İts name, meaning “red” in ancient Greek, is derived from the deep red color of the soil found in the area. Some remains from Hellenistic and Roman times can still be seen within the remains of its 4 km-long walls.

 

Clazomenae (Urla)

Located 38 km west of Izmir is ancient Clazomenae, which dates back to 4000 BC. As early as 2000 BC, it had established itself as an important ceramic center. Excavations in the area have uncovered unique painted terracotta sarcophagi, and in the bay, remains of an ancient causeway (under the modern one) leading to the small island which lies off-shore.

 

Panaztepe

Near Maltepe west of Menemen, remnants from as early as 2000 BC have been found along with Tholos-style tombs and an extensive ancient cemetery. Roman ruins and tombs from the Ottoman era can also be found in this Aeolian city.

 

Pitane (Candarli)

On a small peninsula south of Dikili lies Pitane, a member of the ancient Aeolian League. Burial urns from a recently discovered necropolis are on display in museums in Bergama and Istanbul. The castle built by the Venetians in the 13th century is still in good condition.

 

Cyme (Nemrut)

The largest Aeolian city was Cyme, located on the coast NW of modern-day Menemen. Although very little few ruins are visible (a small piece of wall, building, and temple to Isis), harbor works can be seen underwater while snorkeling.

 

Phocaea (Foca)

Phocaea was a port city located at 70 km northeast of Izmir, which used to be one of the 12 Ionian cities. The outer castle, Genoese fortress (late 13th century), and Ottoman boathouse (known as “Beskapilar”) still keep on saluting the Aegean Sea from the Foca headland. The Ottoman graveyard, with its more than 200 gravestones, and the impressive Tas Kule (Stone Tower) built by ancient Persians are some of the sites of attraction.

 

Teos (Sigacik)

Near Seferihisar, Teos was one of the wealthiest cities in the Ionian League. Having two harbors, the city held a significant position in sea trade. The largest Temple of Dionysos was located here. Teos was also home to the ‘Artists of Dionysos’, a guild of artists and musicians who performed at festivals all over the ancient Greek world.

 

Lebedos

Lying on a small peninsula between Seferihisar and Gumuldur, Lebedos was one of the 12 Ionian cities. The wall around the peninsula can be seen together with a foundation for a basilica inside the east corner of the city wall. Located about four kilometers from Lebedos is another site of attraction, the Karakose ruins, which include a temple and bath.

 

Colophon (Degirmendere)

One of the most powerful Ionian cities, it was a rich agricultural town about 15 km north of Claros and Notium. The scant remains of the ancient city are scattered across the lower slopes of three small hills and include parts of a Temple of Demeter, a commercial center, houses (all from the 4th century BC), and more recently built Roman baths.

 

Claros (near Gumuldur)

The home of the Temple of Apollo was located near Notium, the ancient port city about one kilometer away. Remains of Claros’ colossal statue of Apollo can still be seen. This area is also home to the delicious ‘Satsuma’ variety of tangerine.

 

Nymphaion (Kemalpasa)

Inhabited since 1300 BC, Nymphaion is located in modern Kemalpasa. Besides engravings of Hittite warriors on the Karabel Gate, remains of a Byzantine palace (Kiz Kulesi) can still be seen today.

 

Metropolis

The city of Mother Goddess. The ancient city, dedicated to the Mother Goddess, lies along the old road from Izmir to Ephesus (west of Torbali). The Uyuzdere cave, where the Miera statue was found, and the theater are important sites to visit. There are remains of Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods. It was a city of agriculture and trade and also a religious center.

 

Cesme

Cesme is located on the far western end of the Izmir’s peninsula, surrounded by the Aegean Sea, across from the isle of Chios. Its well-preserved castle and caravanserai date from the beginning of the 16th century.

 

Birgi

At the foot of the 2197 meter high Mt. Boz, Birgi (‘Pyrgion’ in Byzantine times) has walls from the Byzantine citadel and the magnificent Ulu Mosque (1312 AD). Other sites worth visiting are the Tomb of Birgivi Mehmet Efendi and the splendidly restored Cakiraga Mansion.

 

  

From Smyrna to Izmir …

 

İzmir or ancient Smyrna, was first built by the Lelegs in 3000 BC, in the Bayrakli neighborhood, on the site now known as the Tepekule Tumulus.

The city was attacked by its neighbors, the Lydians, in 600 BC and soon afterwards was invaded by the Persians in 546 BC.

The rebuilding of the city of Izmir in 334 BC was in large part due to Alexander the Great, who, according to the legend, had a dream as he slept under a plane tree after hunting on Mt. Pagus (present-day Kadifekale)… In his dream, the twin goddesses Nemesis ask Alexander to found a brand new city and bring the citizens of the old city there. Alexander awakened and shared his dream with the Oracle of Claros. The Oracle’s reply was simple:

“The citizens of Smyrna who move and settle on the hillside of Mt. Pagus by the Sacred Meles Stream shall be four times happier than before”.

The construction of the new city started during the reign of Antigone, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, and was completed during the reign of Lysimakhos. In addition, a temple was built for Nemesis on Mt. Pagus. That is the legend…

The city was built on the north slope of Mt. Pagus with half of the city situated on the mountain and the other half settling below. The city included a library, a Homerion (Cultural Center), the Temple of Homer and a monument to Homer. The famous geographer and historian, Strabon, states that during the reign of Alexander the Great, Izmir was the most beautiful city in Asia;

“Go to the banks of my Meles stream, there you will find the real cave of the nymphs where Homer wrote his poems.”

The city was ruled by the Pergamon Dynasty from 302 BC until it was incorporated by the Roman Empire in 133 BC. The history of Izmir under Roman rule is less known than its history during the Greek times, but one event from the Roman period is well known. This most significant event in this period took place in 166 AD during the reign of Emperor Trajan. Polycarpe, the elderly Bishop of Smyrna, was arrested for refusing to worship the Roman emperor, and was taken to the theater on Mt. Pagus to be burned at the stake. Bishop Polycarpe, who had served for 60 years, was given one last chance to recant, but refused to deny Christ before the proconsul, who then ordered him to be burned alive.

 

 

As the Roman Empire eventually divided into two halves, the East and West, Izmir became the capital of a state of the East Roman Empire (Byzantines). Around 440 AD the city was besieged by Atilla the Hun, and was later captured again by the Byzantines.

In 1076, Izmir was taken over by the Seljuks, and in 1098, was once again invaded by Byzantines. The city was recaptured by Umur Bey (Seljuks) in 1320. Later in 1334, the Port Castle was captured by the Crusaders. Until 1402, the Turks ruled Kadifekale known as “Turkish Izmir” and the Crusaders ruled the Port Castle known as “Non-Muslim Izmir”. In 1402, Port Castle was destroyed by the Mongol Timur Khan and the city was handed over to the Aydinogullari Principality.

Izmir was taken over by the Ottoman Empire in 1426 and from the 16th century onwards it has held a significant role in world trade. Turkey was one of the first countries to use rail transport. The fine Izmir – Aydin and Izmir – Turgutlu Railways, which started operating between 1856 – 1863, were the first railways built in Anatolia.

At the end of the First World War, the city was captured by the Greeks on May 15, 1919. It was recaptured on September 9, 1922 during the Turkish National War of Independence. Izmir took its place among the important cities of Turkey upon the foundation of the Turkish Republic. Today it is a bustling, cosmopolitan metropolis.

Some memorable historic notes:

• The first all-marble temple of the world was constructed in Ephesus.
• The oldest and the longest street of the Hellenic world was the 120 meter long Athena Street used during 7 – 4 BC
• The Iliad, the first written masterpiece of western civilization, was sung by Homer in Izmir, at the banks of the Meles stream.
• In 1841, the first theater, Euterpe, was founded.
• In 1850, Garko, a doctor in Izmir, formulated a medicine for diabetes, by using herbs of the Aegean region.
• The first private newspaper in Turkey, the “Spectator Oriental”, was issued in Izmir, on March 24, 1881 by Alexandr Balcque, in French.
• The first football team in Turkey was assembled in Izmir, in 1890.

 

 

Homer

Greek settlement is attested by the presence of pottery dating from about 1000 BC. According to the Greek historian Herodotus, the city was first established by the Aeolians, but shortly thereafter seized by the Ionians who developed it into one of the world's largest cultural and commercial centers of that period.

Homer, referred to as Melesigenes which means "Child of Meles Brook" is said to have been born in Smyrna. Meles Brook is located within the city of Izmir, still carrying the same name. Aristotle recounts: "Kriteis... gives birth to Homer near Meles Brook and dies after. Maion brings this child up and names him as Melesigenes ("Child of Meles") to emphasize the place where he was born." Six other cities claimed that Homer was their countryman. These cities are Salamis, Argos, Athens, Rhodes, Colophon and Chios , but the main belief is that Homer was born in Ionia. Combined with written evidence, Smyrna and Chios lay the strongest arguments in Homer's claim.

 

 

 

TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER

Tourism Police Center

İzmir Branch               :  4573788
e-mail                       : turizm@izmirpolis.gov.tr   

İzmir Provincial Directorate
Akdeniz Mahalesi 1344 Sokak No:2 Pasaport/İZMİR
Phone:0.232.483 62 16 - 483 51 17  - 483 42 70

Adnan Menderes Airport, International Lines 
Phone:0.232. 274 22 14 - 274 21 10

Bergama Tourism Information
Zafer Mahallesi İzmir Cad. No:54
Phone:0.232. 633 18 62 - 633 18 62

Bodrum Tourism Information
Phone: 0.252. 316 10 91

Dalaman Tourism Information, Airport
Phone:0.252.792 52 20

Denizli Tourism Information
Phone:0.258264 39 71 - 272 20 77
www.pamukkkale.gov.tr e - mail:turizm@pamukkale.gov.tr

Didim Tourism Information
Phone: 0.256 811 45 29

Çeşme Tourism Information
İskele Meydanı No:8
Phone: 0.232. 712 66 53 - 712 66 53

Foça Tourism Information
Atatürk Mahallesi Foça Girişi No:1
Phone: 0.232. 812 12 22 - 812 12 22

Muğla Provincial Directorate
Phone:0.253 414 12 61
www.mugla-turizm.gov.tr  e - mail:mugla@mugla-turizm.gov.tr


Selçuk  Tourism Information
Atatürk Mahallesi Agora Çarşısı No:35
Phone: 0.232. 892 63 28 - 892 69 45

Ödemiş  Tourism Information
Phone: 0.232. 545 31 50 

Tire Tourism Information
Phone: 0.232. 512 66 14 

Özdere Tourism Information
Phone:0.232. 797 85 05

 

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